Circumnavigation of Mull

After a 24 hour reset, and with a gale forecast to pass through, we returned to Loch Spelve and set our main and second anchor (an incredibly light yet effective "Fortress"). Whilst the shelter wasn't terrible, we expected the Southerly gusts to roll down the adjacent hills - which they duly did at 40+knots.  

With a successful rendezvous with the cousins complete, and after exploring the shores around the loch, we bagged a sack of mussels from the adjacent mussel farm and returned to sit out the gale overnight, feasting on the very tasty shellfish and settling our two new crew members in.

With the aim of getting down to the South West of the Island, and a good weather forecast for most of the week, we gritted our teeth and sailed out from the sheltered loch into what we anticipated would be a less than settled sea state to head along the South Coast of Mull. We were aiming for the Isle of Erraid and the well - known 'Tinker's Hole' anchorage - sheltered, and with the promise of wildlife and good adventures ashore (also providing inspiration for some really quite inventive jokes from Hektor!). 

Loch Spelve in the early morning light

The passage started well and we'd made good progress before the children woke up thanks to a very early start. However, as we made ground South West we started to feel the awkward results of the previous night's gale which, alongside the prevailing breeze, resulted in an uncomfortable twisting roll.  Results for our younger crew members were predictable, and it was an inauspicious start to their week onboard - driving rain and seasickness!  Even Hektor, who seems to have inherited Marcus's ridiculously tough stomach, suffered and was forced to take a much despised Kwells tablet.  A number of technicolour yawns resulted, although morale improved with the weather later in the day.

Exhilarating sailing.....

The entrance to Tinker's hole appears unlikely seen from seaward, however, as you progress between the shoals and slightly unnerving off-lying rocks, the shelter and beauty of this famous anchorage becomes apparent.  We anchored at the North end of the small cove then, as there is little space to swing, took lines ashore (again utilising a bit of child labour to assist with the task) - one to a ring fitted there by the Clyde Cruising Club and another to a large boulder. Nicely triangulated, and having confirmed (ahem) the location of a slightly shallower patch during the approach to our anchorage, we launched the tender to explore. 

Entrance to Tinker's Hole

Tinker's Hole

Anchor and lines ashore

With a tender bursting with small people, the objective was to find a landing point amongst the rocks to enable the short walk to the beach at Treig Gheal, to make the most of the bright sunshine (and make up for what had been a difficult morning).  The experience very much lived up to expectations - with curious seals swimming close (a benefit of the electric outboard is we disturb the wildlife much less), and a successful landing, the pristine white sand of the small embayed beach offered an idyllic scene. There was also the opportunity for some ambitious damn building and it was all we could do to get back to the boat at a reasonable time.

Dam building on the beach

Grey seal apparently waiting for the tide to rise

The next day's objective was puffins; we left early to clear South West of the Ross of Mull and head past Staffa (of Fingal's Cave fame) towards Lunga, where we planned a lunch-time anchorage and, if conditions allowed, an expedition ashore to view the very large puffin colony.

The consistent South Easterly wind enabled a fast sail around the West of Iona, and we made good ground towards Staffa, with the famous cave clearly visible from several miles off.  The impressive Basalt columns were easy to discern as we reached past, and when abeam of Staffa we saw our first puffins - a small group in the water scurrying away as we sailed past. 

The island of Staffa

We gybed around towards Lunga, enjoying another smooth and fast sail, and then felt our way carefully into a confined anchorage, close to the puffin colony.  Since Hazel is mostly in charge of all route planning decisions, we often seem to find ourselves in more 'interesting' places since ease of navigation into anchorages is not ranked especially highly on her list of priorities and is certainly well below proximity to puffins. Whilst not suitable to stay overnight, and open to the South East, it was fine to enable us to land, albeit the 'beach' (expanse of broken rocks with gentle breakers) was a little tricky.  We managed to get the crew ashore safely to explore the island and see the puffins up close.

Contour in the distance - not a terrible location!

Having been persuaded by Hazel to walk up a big hill, Hektor did admit the view was pretty spectacular

Puffin-bothering complete (and surpassing all expectations), we reluctantly weighed anchor and joined the strong tide Northerly up towards our sheltered anchorage for the evening.  It is tempting to make great claims for our passage planning and tide-reading skills, however this tide was much more fair than we forecast and the result was another fast sail to the isolated and very sheltered Loch Mingary on NW Mull, and only about 10 miles short of Tobermorey, our destination for Thursday (time to return children to parents).

Intense Bananagram activity

Clear skies, stars, and a gentle (if very cold) breeze made our short stay in Mingary a pleasure, and we made a leisurely start towards Tobermorey the following day - the crew's skill levels were on the up and they were starting to make a real contribution towards sail handling and helming. Tobermorey lives up to its' reputation as an attractive (and colourful) town, all the more fun for the music festival that was just getting underway as we arrived.  We returned the two (mostly-intact) cousins to their parents, enjoyed some good food and spent much of the following day walking out to Rubha Nan Gall lighthouse and back, before starting back towards Oban and completing our circumnavigation of Mull. Hektor's final evening onboard was spent enjoying Pizza and Mocktails in the warm sunshine on deck at anchor off the South of Kerrera (the small island off Oban) and preparing for his travel back to Bristol with Marcus via a flight from Glasgow.  Marcus' return via Glasgow would enable some materials to be collected to support some of the projects onboard to progress in a weather window during our planned stop in the wonderful Kerrera Marina (when it comes to maintenance, owning a boat has many similarities to the Forth Bridge). 

You can follow our progress on our boat page at noforeignland.com

Hill Climbing in a Staysail Schooner

The second week in April saw Contour fill up with more crew ready for the passage West through the Crinan Canal towards Oban. Despite the best efforts of Easyjet to scupper plans, Marcus travelled South to pick up Hektor (a rather longer journey than planned involving a train and not a plane) and RV in London with our friend Tim and his son Lev to travel North together. The West Coast Main Line sped us to Glasgow and then on a local train to Helensborough, from where we set off on the 12 April in a fresh breeze to reach quickly down the Firth of Clyde and work our way through the Kyles of Bute towards Crinan.

 Press - Gang sweepings!

Our days in and around the Clyde had already taught us to be ready for variable, gusty, and strong winds which happily shift and squall and we were starting to be able to read some of the topograhic clues. We had set off with our No. 2 yankee, full main and staysails hoisted, however, as we turned West into the Kyles of Bute, we found ourselves South of Loch Striven tucking in a reef and shifting down to the No. 3 (smallest) yankee - it was becoming a very quick and slightly damp sail for our new joiners.  Marcus found himself getting unexpectedly twitchy about pushing the boat hard with younger sailors onboard, however, said younger sailors just wanted the boat to tip over more so they could enjoy the 'climbing up the deck while trying to pull each other off' game (while very firmly clipped on to the safely lines)! As it so often does, reducing sail turned out to be the right move - we still surged along at six knots North West up the Kyles towards the Burnt Isles, but it was all much more comfortable onboard. 

Not staged at all!

We threaded our way through the narrow channel South of the Burnt Isles, however the strong (and unexpected) South Easterly made anchoring impractical; the Clyde Cruising Club pilot and wonderful Antares charts came to the rescue and we tucked into Rubha Dubh, a small bay in the lee of Bute, for lunch.  Restored, and with the skies cleaning, we reached South down the West Kyle of Bute, again being teased by variable and sometimes quite strong winds.  We planned to anchor close to Ardrishaig and be ready for a prompt entry into the Crinain canal to start our transit the following day.

Rhu to Adrishaig

Again, Antares served us well and we anchored close into a very picturesque bay, well sheltered from the Gusty Easterlies, South of Rubha Preasach a third of the way up Loch Fyne. All the help from the Antares surveys was starting to draw the sting from our enforced departure from Largs a few days before (when the Antares survey yacht needed the visitor's berth.....). We did have the delight of 5 people's worth of wet kit to deal with which led to Marcus muttering something about installing radiators and a new heater mid-sabbatical (this idea has been vetoed!).

Crinan Canal to Oban

After a tranquil night, we were up early re-configuring Contour for the canal transit; sails to be stowed away to leave clear fairleads, additional fenders to be inflated, and long 12m lock-lines to be unearthed from the stratum deep within the rope locker. (Marcus' view is that it is impossible to own too much rope; this view has undoubtedly been used to justify some second-hand 'comfort' boat-purchases at time of low morale....).

Having been entertained by Dolphins we arrived promptly in time for the advertised 'opening time' for the Crinan Canal, to find..... rather an ominous 'out' note on the door of the office (it was almost Paddingtonesque and missing only a smear of marmalade!) No matter - the sun was shining, there was stone skimming to be done, and we expected things to be a bit 'quiet' this early in the season.  Further inquiries revealed that our failure to complete the very well-disguised 'booking' part of the Scottish Canals website would delay us a bit. We locked into the Ardrishaig basin and went for a delightful walk up a very beautiful woodland glen, complete with waterfalls and even some swimming.  In the evening Hektor was dispatched up the mainmast with a small hammer to photograph and tap down an errant split pin end that had caught on one of the halyards the previous day. It's fortuitous that he enjoys any excuse to be hoisted up the mast as it's considerably easier getting him up there than other members of the crew......

Child Labour

The following day our transit started, in company with a large motor cruiser.  Our combined lengths overall were somewhat longer than the length of the canal locks so, until we separated out after the first couple of locks, they were rather at risk from our bowsprit.  Our bowsprit was not remotely at risk from their canvas bimini, so we were not too concerned, although it did make the manoeuvre into the early locks slightly delicate.

Having separated out we quickly got into a good routine through the canal; the ascent locks are somewhat harder work and involve the shore party running ahead some distance to prepare the next lock for entry, having closed off the last one.  Hektor and Lev got into the swing of things and to our pleasure and surprise proved strong enough (just!) to open the heavy lock doors while Hazel closed the gates on the previous lock. 

This sped up progress significantly, although passers-by looked somewhat bemused at Tim and Marcus lounging in the cockpit whilst two slight kids strained against the lock-gate beams! After a break for Nintendo and chocolate (there were threats of mutiny and/or reports of enforced child labour), we were pleased to start the descent locks, and the vistas from the canal became ever more spectacular as we approached the final miles. Having switched roles for the descent, Hazel had the pleasure of trying to manoeuvre into a lock just as the throttle decided to give up the ghost completely making it virtually impossible to know if the boat was in neutral or in gear. It wasn't pretty,  but we did manage to get the boat secured safely in the lock with no damage (other than to Hazel's nerves) so Marcus could set to work fixing the offending linkage (temporarily at least). 

We spent a pleasant night in a quiet stretch of the canal which gave Hektor and Lev the opportunity to try out our new electric outboard and head off on adventures up and down the canal unimpeded by adult interference. It is far less truculent than the previous 4-stroke petrol engine and was an instant hit with the crew who could be heard shrieking delightedly and singing even if they were too far off to be seen. The next morning we completed the final (and incredibly beautiful) stretch of the canal, stopped briefly in Crinin for coffee and cake and and to get the boat ready for sea again, before being let out of the final two locks and back into open water. We then reached our way up into Loch Craignish, having identified an anchorage near a small island for the kids to explore. The wind was steady and the anchorage clear so we decided to sail into the anchorage spot; this mostly worked, although as ever the gusty conditions helped with the entertainment!

This is Lev's standard photo face and does not necessarily reflect morale at the time

With the landing party established ashore on the aptly-named 'Goat Island', sunshine and a reasonable forecast (along with, it has to be said, perhaps some overpowering optimism from Marcus and Tim) the decision was made to try for an overnight camp on the island, an adventure our younger crew were very taken by.  A series of logistics runs in our 'compact' tender followed, however, as we finished the runs the forecast gentle SE piped up to 25knots, and heavy rain slightly dampened all of our enthusiasm.  Retreat to a warm boat beckoned, we set out a second anchor and settled in.

It is NOT raining......

The following day the Fresh South - Easterly persisted, offering the opportunity for a fast sail up towards Oban; wind and tide were fair and we made our way cautiously towards the 'Dorus Mor' - a notorious tidal gate that, whilst not as tricky as the Gulf of Corryvreken, requires some care.  We shot through like a cork from a bottle, and the calm waters offered a clear view of the extraordinary turbulence and power of the tidal streams in these confined waters.

There followed an extraordinarily fast and pleasant sail up past Scarba and Lunga, and through the tricky narrows into the Firth of Lorn. Often sailing at 6 knots we were making 8-10 over the ground at times, and arrived earlier than expected in Loch Spelve, on the Island of Mull, in good time for a quiet afternoon enjoying glorious sunshine and the sheltered tranquility of this spectacular inlet.  Conditions were fair and Tim showed great skill and seamanship, sailing us into a confined anchorage and dropping anchor within a couple of meters of our planned spot. Sadly this was Tim and Lev's last full day on board, before they had to catch their train from Oban the following day.  With a contrary wind we motored up the picturesque Kerrera Sound into Oban, and dispatched them South on the train after a most excellent lunch of fish and chips. We then got on with the slightly dull task of stocking up on food to prepare for our next crew - Hektor's cousins Max and Bea who we would pick up on Mull for the forthcoming week.

It's rare to get a photo of Marcus sitting still - such was the relaxing nature of Loch Spelve

You can follow our progress on our boat page at noforeignland.com

End of the First Leg - Arrival on the Clyde

Having enjoyed the delights of Campbeltown (with the entertaining backdrop of Exercise Mine Warrior), some good walks and some running, we were delighted to hear from friend Jo who was unexpectedly able to come and join us for a day or so. Having managed to avoid being lured into one of the many whisky distilleries, we decided it was time to move on.  I was keen to get underway lest Hazel had another 'good idea' to take us both off for another 'little run'......these are normally about a dozen miles, focussed largely around the largest and steepest hill in the area, and generally leave me somewhat broken for a day or so.

Weather and wind made Largs look like a good mid-point to RV and enable a day or so of sailing. We had a final comfortable night at anchor off Campbeltown, and finished what has been (so far) the only repair of the trip - installing a new split charge device as the old charge splitting diode was getting very hot and bothered.

The sail from Campbeltown up Kilbrannan Sound was a little frustrating with the forecast South Easterly elusive; we reached briefly in 10-12kts and bright sun (before the wind disappeared entirely); it was gollywobbler weather so we hoisted all plain sail and I took the opportunity to fly the drone and get some good pics of Contour looking her best with Aisla Craig in the background.  Flying things from a boat is a game of two halves - launching is relatively easy (up and don't fly into the masts).  Recovery is harder, faced with the reality of lots to bump into and the annoying tendency of boats to move.  Every time I land the drone I grudgingly admit that aviators probably earn their money!  Because Hazel is surprisingly sanguine about losing the odd finger, we have developed a technique where I match boat speed and lower the drone gradually to 'catch height'.  So far, the number of launches and recoveries has remained pleasingly equal......

By the North of Arran the wind had turned up, not remotely related to the forecast naturally!  We started to learn about the strong local effects which predominate in the Clyde, with frequent and dramatic changes of wind speed and direction sail trimming became a full time task.  We raced across the top of Arran, and managed to thread the gap through the Cumbrai islands without gybing, before turning North past Hunterstone towards Largs.

Largs is a huge marina - the largest in Scotland I think - and the mix of boats and style of marina rather reminded me of being on the Solent again.  Jo joined us on arrival, as always replete with high quality trucklements.  We explored the area around Largs a bit, went on a decent (and very refreshing!)walk up a local glen, (Hazel and Jo having carefully chosen contrasting and equally colourful outfits) and then tucked in to wait for the weather to pass, as the second of a series of large atlantic lows marched it's way past, accompanied by 40kt winds, snow, and hail.

The following day, the wind backed over the course of the morning and, by the time of attempted departure, was blowing us hard on to the berth which was somewhat exposed at the entrance to the marina.  Despite extensive efforts with a backspring and then a 'sprong' (spring worked across the stern to lever the bow out) along with some significant engine power, we could not get the bow across the wind and leave the berth safely. As (again) the wind showed no signs of remotely complying with the forecast and started gusting to 40kts, we made the decision to stay another night. Hazel ambled up to the Marina office, only to get  the good news from the Marina that a large Oyster had committed to entry and we would have to leave the visitor's berth..... Sadly this also made the logistics for Jo somewhat of a challenge so her visit was cut prematurely short - this was very disappointing, though looking at the forecast, Jo may have been relieved to have an excuse to exit the boat for a warmer and drier life ashore!

We secured for a stiff passage and, with the help of a (very well handled) marina work boat to pull us off the berth, made it out into the Largs channel, relatively sheltered by Great Cumbrai Island.  With two reefs in and our No3 Yankee, we broke cover North into the Firth of Clyde, close hauled and heading towards Bute where we had identified a relatively sheltered bay to sit out what promised to be a very strong 48 hr blow.  Kames Bay, North West of Rothesay, promised good holding ground and reasonable shelter.

The sail across the Firth was brilliant fun! We had the right sails set, and in the very strong gusts Contour was flying along up wind, showing all the best of her weight, long keel, and schooner rig and steady at six knots 30-35 degrees off the wind, rarely getting the rail even close to the water. As we approached the Kyles, we decided to prepare two anchors and sit to a double bridle rather than just rely on our Danforth Claw.  The first chance to break out our second-hand 'Fortress' and a proper focs'le buffer's dance to rig both ready with strops, rode, chain, and anchor ready.  The plan was to lay the bower (main) anchor, then motor up slightly across the wind to make a 'Y'.  

All went to plan (meaning Hazel managed not to mess up the driving and I managed not to throw myself overboard along with the anchor), which was lucky as the wind was very strong by this point and getting them up again might have been bad for morale!  We sat back hard with the weight well balanced between them, lit the stove and carefully checked that our scotch still tasted good, settling in for what promised to be a 48 hour wait.  Happily we were in good shape for time, so it was nice to sit back and wait without feeling under time pressure (quite a change from our excursions pre-sabbatical when deadlines for returning to work always loomed large!).

There followed a very snug period at anchor, with the gale howling over our head and happily the holding ground and tackle doing a good job.

I was worried that weighing anchor might be a complete pickle as, when the wind eased, we had circled our anchors over night. Fears were unfounded and, aside from taking a little while to get it all off the bottom, there was a pleasing lack of snakes wedding waiting for us.  Reassuring to know that our setup is good for a genuine blow and we can tuck ourselves safely away when required. We explored the East Kyle of Bute then beat up to explore Loch Striven before clearing Rothesay Sound and heading North up the Firth of Clyde. 

The changeable nature of the wind provided constant entertainment, with everything from 28kt squalls from the West to whisper-light breezes from the North East enabling ample practice trimming sails!  It was nice to be in familiar territory - my memories of navigating a small ship during OST in the area meant the key landmarks came flooding back.  We passed Holy Loch, where relatives of mine spent many months stationed in war time, then picked up a mooring at Ardentinny, about half-way up Loch Long and South West of Coulport - the lights of the Explosives Handling Jetty looming eerily through the mist (Hazel is getting increasingly suspicious that we are on some kind of naval sight-seeing mission!).

After a quiet night at anchor we reached back South into the Firth of Clyde in bright sunshine, passing close by Kilcreggan where our friends Bob and Trudy had kindly invited us to spend a couple of nights in a proper bed in Chateaux Hawkins over the weekend before I jumped on the train to head South to collect Hektor.  We enjoyed a wonderful couple of days being being very generously hosted by Bob and Trudy, welcome civilisation and fantastic company. This also meant we were able to see a lot of the local sights, the best hostelries, and enjoy some fantastic cuisine which contrasted somewhat from our normal boat-based cooking...

Arriving at Rhu marina as long planned on the 8th April felt good; we had sailed around 580nm from Portishead, benefitted from some great weather, and very much enjoyed the planned visits. Arriving marked the end of the first stage of our expedition and the planned point to embark Hektor, our friend Tim and his son Lev ready for the next phase heading further West towards the Crinian Canal and Oban....

You can follow our progress on our boat page at noforeignland.com