North towards the Kyles of Lochalsh.

  

The somewhat threatening Loch Hourn

Emerging from Loch Nevis as the weather calmed down, we started heading further North to pass through the narrows of Kyle Rhea and Loch Alsh (interesting tidal gates which present the risk of finding yourself sailing backwards if you mistime your transit). Having made a fast passage up the Sound of Sleat (between Skye and the mainland) we had time in hand before the tidal gate at Kyle Rhea so we turned South East into Loch Hourn.  The loch looked somewhat sinister, with cloud and mist rolling over the hills, contrasting with the sunshine we'd been enjoying so far.  Marking the Northern side of the Knoydart hills, Loch Hourn is described by some as the 'hell' to Loch Nevis's 'heaven'. It was certainly living up to this reputation as we entered, with imposing mountains capped with dark cloud, squally sailing down the loch, and a prevailing sense of wilderness.  Having flown down the loch, we turned upwind to beat our way back up to the Sound of Sleat and towards Kyle Rhea.  It was an exciting sail, with gusts to 30+ knots keeping us busy, before (naturally) the wind died almost completely in the Sound of Sleat. 

Brief Loch Hourn sunshine

Squalls in Loch Hourn 

We had arranged to meet the crew of SV Henry in Kyle to ferry them (and a large volume of supplies) back to Plockon where Henry was moored - essentially providing a very slow and not terribly reliable Uber schooner service. We'd made surprisingly good time and, after motoring West under Skye Bridge, were able to enjoy a gentle sunset sail North to Plockton, a picture-postcard fishing village at the head of Loch Carron. The new crew appeared to enjoy their introduction to the wonders of ferrocement schooner sailing; somewhat different to the modern aluminium speed machine that is Henry! Marcus was slightly surprised to recall he had, in fact, visited Plockton before, albeit only the small aerodrome on the outskirts of the village which is occasionally frequented by Navy helicopters moving people ashore from the North Atlantic. 

Plockton

Having explored the countryside around Plockton a little and enjoyed the local hostelries, we motored over a mirror-smooth sea to anchor in Applecross Bay, the mouth of the Applecross River and the site of the famous Applecross estate walled garden. The wonderfully settled conditions meant we were able to anchor in the exposed bay and head ashore for food and exploration.  Fortified with an excellent lunch, we walked the 5k along the coast to Applecross Sands, a pristine beach facing Raasay and the home of a very large sand dune which can be run up and down (once was quite enough!).

Motoring from Plockton to Applecross

Applecross Sands

Applecross Sands

At anchor in Applecross Bay

From Applecross, we motored across the Inner Sound and between Raasay and Rona to the excellent anchorage of Acarsaid Mhor (Big Harbour in Gaelic) on Rona. This small, privately owned and beautifully kept island also has a resident herd of deer which, incidentally, are sometimes available as remarkably good venison burgers.  Like so many of the islands here there is a great deal of history associated with Rona and, the following morning, we set out for a slippery run to the island church (in a cave), and some of the deserted ruins.  The small museum eloquently tells the story of settlement, the impact of the 19th century clearances, how hard the living was on these small remote islands, and their eventual depopulation by emigration and the social upheavals after the First World War.

Anchorage at Acarsaid Mhor on Rona

Cathedral Cave on Rona

On Rona we were also pleased to meet another Endurance - a 37 called 'Mr Orion', she's based in Plymouth but has spent a couple of summers exploring the West Coast.  It was good to compare similarities and differences and, as always, pick up some tips!

From Rona we planned to head back to the mainland - to the remote mountainous area around Loch Torridon to get some altitude and give our legs some walking practice....albeit with the promise of more unsettled weather and high winds looming over us.

Follow our progress here.